The Washerwomen's Planes of the Curtidores Bridge
Rochapea
These trees exist because the washerwomen of Pamplona asked for them. In the middle of the nineteenth century the women who did the city's laundry on the bank of the Arga wanted shade while they worked, and the planes were planted at their request. The washing has long gone from the river. The trees have not. Pamplona's own book of old and singular trees, published by the city in 2010, counts the group at the Curtidores bridge at somewhere between 25 and 100 planes, and gives a sample trunk at 2.52 metres round and 20 metres tall. Planted around the middle of that century, they are some 160 to 180 years old, which in a city the same book found to have mostly young trees puts them among the elders. The bridge joins the Rochapea, the low district on the north bank, to the Casco Viejo on its ridge, and the book reckons hundreds of people cross it every day. What they see is the detail the book singles out. The branches lean out and down until they brush the water. The river is also taking something back. Erosion has been stripping the soil from the roots, which stand more exposed every year, as they do under other groups of planes along the Arga. A tree planted for women washing at the water's edge is slowly being undercut by the same water.
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Getting there
Paseo fluvial del Arga at the Puente de Curtidores, 31014 Pamplona
You can recognise them by the line of planes leaning out over the Arga, branches dipping to the water and roots bared by the current. They stand on the riverbank at the Curtidores bridge.
Free, on the public riverside path along the Arga, open at all times
About 800 metres on foot from the Plaza del Castillo, roughly 12 minutes, down from the old town to the river at the Curtidores bridge
The line is our estimate of how much there is to see, not a measurement. Typical for this species where this tree stands; exact weeks shift with the year.
Sources
Where the facts on this page come from. The story was written with AI from these sources, and readers who know the tree correct it.