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Photo: Thomas Ledl (CC BY-SA 3.0 AT)
The Persian Ironwood of the Grete-Rehor-Park
Photo: Thomas Ledl (CC BY-SA 3.0 AT)See it at full size

The Persian Ironwood of the Grete-Rehor-Park

Innere Stadt, 1st district

Years old85-110
Girth4.6 m
SpeciesPersian Ironwood

This tree is twice as wide as it is tall. The Persian ironwood on Schmerlingplatz stands between 6 and 10 metres high and throws a crown 16 to 18 metres across, which is what the species does when nobody crowds it: instead of a trunk it grows a low fused knot of leaning stems that peel in grey, green and fawn plates like a plane tree's, then spreads sideways until it makes its own room. The city measures the base at 460 centimetres around, an exceptional figure for a species most European gardens never get past arm's width. Vienna protected it on 5 November 1956, and the stated reason was not its age or size but simply its rarity. Parrotia persica grows wild only in the Caspian forests of northern Iran and Azerbaijan, and in the 1950s a full-grown one in a Vienna square was worth a legal decree. What it does in late October is the reason to walk over. The leaves do not turn a single colour, they turn several at once and unevenly, so one branch goes scarlet while the next is still green and a third has already reached amber, and the whole low dome ends up looking backlit even under grey sky. The small park around it, a wedge of grass beside the Justizpalast, was named in 2016 after Grete Rehor, the first woman to hold a ministry in Austria.

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Getting there

Grete-Rehor-Park, Schmerlingplatz, 1010 Wien

You can recognise it by being twice as wide as it is tall, a low knot of leaning stems peeling in grey, green and fawn plates, 460 centimetres round at the base. It stands on the grass wedge beside the Justizpalast.

Free, public park, open at all times

5 min walk from Volkstheater U-Bahn station (U2/U3), across Museumsplatz

Best time to visitAutumn colour
now JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

Autumn colour

late October, when the leaves turn scarlet, amber and green all at once

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The Persian Ironwood of the Grete-Rehor-Park

For example: “Best seen from the north side around four, when the sun comes through.” Or: “There was a church on this square until 1755.”

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