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Photo: Djuna Vaesen (CC BY-SA 4.0)
The Handkerchief Tree of the Oude Hortus
Photo: Djuna Vaesen (CC BY-SA 4.0)See it at full size

The Handkerchief Tree of the Oude Hortus

Binnenstad

Approximate location.

You need a ticket to see this treePaid entry, Universiteitsmuseum ticket or separate Oude Hortus ticket; UMU and the Oude Hortus are open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 to 17:00

For about ten days every May, this tree looks like it is covered in hundreds of small white handkerchiefs, or according to the alternative common name, a flock of ghosts caught mid-flutter. What actually flowers are pairs of oversized white bracts, modified leaves rather than petals, that hang beneath each small flower cluster and catch any breath of wind. Davidia involucrata was unknown to Western botany until 1869, when the French missionary and naturalist Armand David first documented it in the mountains of central China, and it stayed a horticultural rarity for decades afterward because its seeds are notoriously reluctant to germinate, sometimes taking two winters before anything happens at all. Utrecht's specimen, in the walled garden behind the University Museum, is one of the relatively few handkerchief trees the Netherlands has managed to establish and keep alive to a real size, now tall enough to tower over the path beneath it. Outside its two-week May window, it reads as an unremarkable mid-sized tree with heart-shaped leaves, nothing that would make a passerby stop. The garden rewards exactly that kind of patience: come at the wrong time and miss the point entirely, come in May and understand immediately why a tree can be worth crossing a continent for.

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Getting there

Oude Hortus, Universiteitsmuseum Utrecht, Lange Nieuwstraat 106

You can recognise it in May by hundreds of white bracts hanging beneath the flowers like handkerchiefs; the rest of the year it is an unremarkable tree with heart-shaped leaves. It stands in the Oude Hortus.

10-15 minute walk from Utrecht Centraal station

Best time to visit
now JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

In bloom

mid-May, when the white bracts hang like handkerchiefs

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The Handkerchief Tree of the Oude Hortus

For example: “Best seen from the north side around four, when the sun comes through.” Or: “There was a church on this square until 1755.”

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