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The Great Ginkgo of Bodaiji

JapanNagiBodaiji Temple, Mount Nagi

Years old800-1000
Girth11 m
SpeciesGinkgo

As a boy, the story goes, Honen used a ginkgo branch as a walking stick on his climb up Mount Nagi to study at Bodaiji temple. Reaching the gate, he planted the stick in the ground and told it to take root once his learning was complete. He grew up to found Jodo, Pure Land Buddhism, one of Japan's largest schools, and the branch grew into this tree. It is not just a good story. In 2013, Nagi's own education board ran DNA tests linking this ginkgo to two others nearby: one at the foot of the mountain, where tradition says Honen first cut the branch, and a third grown from a piece of this tree's own crown, broken off by snow about two centuries ago. The genetics do not date the tree, but they corroborate the chain the legend describes. At 42.5 metres tall with an 11-metre trunk, it is the largest ginkgo in Okayama Prefecture and one of only twenty ginkgos nationwide to hold National Natural Monument status, since 1928. It is male and produces no fruit, so none of the smell that marks autumn ginkgo season elsewhere. A 1955 fire, started by someone trying to smoke a marten out of its hollow trunk, and a 1989 typhoon both left marks it has since grown past. The temple that grew up around it still lights it for visitors after dark.

The tree's yearAutumn colour
now JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

Autumn colour

October: the whole crown turns butter gold, then drops in a day or two

The line is our estimate of how much there is to see, not a measurement. Typical for this species where this tree stands; exact weeks shift with the year.

1528 Koen, Nagi, Katsuta District, Okayama Prefecture, JapanYou can recognise it as a male ginkgo that never fruits, so none of the smell that usually marks ginkgo season, lit after dark by the temple around it. It stands on the grounds of Bodaiji Temple on Mount Nagi.

Free, within the grounds of Bodaiji Temple (Jodo sect), a signposted tourist stop on the southeast slope of Mount Nagi; open to visitors, no gate or fee mentioned by either source.

From JR Tsuyama Station: local bus toward Mukuwa/Namekata, alight at Nagi-cho Yakuba-mae, then about 15 minutes by taxi. By car: about 20 minutes from Tsuyama Interchange on the Chugoku Expressway.

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